It was Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture show at Valentino; hopes were high, and the brand capitalized on our excitement to deliver a dramatic collection through a mysterious setting. Ever since Alessandro became a household name in the industry, he has not ceased to impress the public with his recognizable style. His approach to design is intellectual yet democratized in a way that everyone can understand. Historical and literary references, from the Renaissance to the Regency era, mix with contemporary ideals of gender fluidity, and bohemian silhouettes.
In Michele’s world, the runway becomes a playground of imagination where past and present merge to create a new dimension. Past silhouettes blend with modern approaches to opulence, creating a nostalgic yet experimental encounter for the viewer. The 200-page show notes were proof of Michele’s dedication and depth of thought. It was solemn, it was ethereal, it was haute couture.
Voluminous crinolines paraded one after the other. Not dramatic enough, they were adorned with ribbons and prints. The opulence of fabrics and the combination of colors and patterns suggested a collection rich with meaning and narratives. Embroidery and sequins created interesting textures that played with all the elements, forming an excessive silhouette characteristic of Michele’s style at Gucci.
Exaggerated hips and collars, golden embroideries, ruffles, and dramatic cuffs were all part of this amalgam of theatrical elements that evoked a Victorian mood. Fashion was avant-garde but rooted in the very essence of haute couture—its techniques and timeless appeal. Luxury was at the core of Valentino, but it was not the main focus; what mattered most was the rich storytelling surrounding the canonical event of the season.
Bold, chaotic, and poetic, the 48 dresses were rich in baroque references and aristocratic allure. His mastery of layering and mix-and-matching disrupted the elegance and classicism of the designs. The collection was an eclectic display of styles and silhouettes, reminiscent of the past yet infused with modern interpretations.