It was bold, it was sophisticated, it was sexy… it was Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford! He was appointed Creative Director of the brand last September, and his debut collection received a standing ovation from the crowd. Haider Ackermann has defined good taste and poetic elegance with his brand. Tom Ford, on the other hand, defined the 2000s aesthetic with his unapologetic and provocative approach to creation. Both designers have stood out for their confident interpretation of design.
His debut collection was an ode to the sumptuous lines of Tom Ford. Sleek silhouettes and deep colors were at the center of the collection. A sense of androgyny, a signature of Ackermann, was felt in the looks. However, feminine and masculine codes did not disappear; instead, they merged and complemented each other in a subtle and elegant way. The idea was not to break with gender but rather to exalt both in a sensual way.
Leather was the main fabric of the collection, evoking a sense of eroticism and self-assurance. A red leather coat with a seductive allure stole the spotlight amid the black and white tones. Shapes defined by structure and tailoring were a clin d’œil to both designers’ emphasis on precision and craftsmanship, as well as their focus on flattering the body’s curves. The looks were timeless and conveyed an effortless approach to elegance and style.
Corporate chic, reminiscent of Y2K—a decade reigned by Tom Ford—was present throughout the collection. For men, it was the dandy aesthetic, very much in line with Ford’s and Ackermann’s personal style. Suits and ties came in a diverse range of colors, from classic pinstripe to white and mint, evoking a sense of soft masculinity. For women, it was color-blocking suits with an emphasis on the shoulders, denoting strength and empowerment. Polished ensembles in shimmering fabrics evoked the night and its pleasures, creating a lavish aesthetic. Asymmetric, tunic-like dresses disrupted the atmosphere but maintained the same understated, effortless, and timeless appeal.
The overall feeling of the show was seductive and mysterious, portraying a confident woman and a refined man. Haider Ackermann’s rendition of Tom Ford was grand yet polished, luxurious yet edgy, sexy yet elegant, feminine yet masculine—all at once. He successfully recreated the brand’s codes with his unique contemporary wit.