After debuting his first collection, Pre-Fall 2025, for Blumarine a little over a month ago, recently appointed Creative Director David Koma, has made the fashion house’s Milan fashion week debut with the fall/winter 2025 collection. Koma proves himself to be a steadfast Creative Director, consistently keeping up with the house’s signature Y2k aesthetic while simultaneously evolving the brand in an authentic and modern way. The new collection explores the themes of alluring femininities imagined by that of Italian cinema, bringing its electrifying spirits to spark new fancies for the brand. Koma conceives a narrative inspired by the multifaceted characters and actresses of Italian film. The muse of the fall/winter 2025 collection embodies the romanticism and rigor of these heroines where Koma embraces a type of cinematic fantasy founded in the dark exoticism of Sicily and the intriguing exuberance of the women who inhabit it on screen. The black sands of Stromboli serve as the collection’s proverbial backdrop which stages the collection’s instinctive meeting between the romanticism of Bluemarine and the modernism of Koma.
The stunning collection expresses an emotional color palette of blood roed and lipstick red against black, dark grey and whites. The Sicilian thistle – at once fragile and assertive – becomes a leitmotif for the collection illustrated through various prints, embroideries and hardware embellishments. In contrast, the nuances of delicate botany renderings – likewise executed in prints and embroideries – are solidified in accents of blues and pinks. This palette paints a seductive silhouette suspended between the romantic fluidity and stark structure. Metal adornments are highlighted throughout the collections, interpreted as flowers, eyelets, studs, rings and paillettes which are then contrasted further by three-dimensional flower and butterfly textures crafted through fabric embroideries and cut-outs.
Boudoir-inspired dressing is a key theme seen throughout with coats and cabana, some trimmed with shearling, feature corseted lines echoed in a bustier construction of tailored jackets paired with voluminous or narrow trousers. The collection’s sensual strictness is mirrored in the modernism of sculptural scuba jackets, dresses and skirts structured on A-line crinolines, as well as crepe tailoring and dresses. Exercising the house’s signature savoir-faire, fully-boned bustier dresses are formed by crinolines bonded with Chantilly lace and cinched with georgette foulards. Sleek surfaces are interrupted by furry textures of shearling coats and corset-structured shearling jackets. Sensibility lingers in pieces crafted in cow hair, in leather shirts, mini dresses with sculpted sweetheart necklines, and denim featuring three-dimensional embellishment.
Shirting that’s reminiscent of the Italian women’s wardrobe is expressed in buoyant silhouettes spanning the bohemian and the darkly romantic, taking form in georgette and chiffon within asymmetric volumes of billowing drapes, crinkled and smock blouses. Fold-over skirts, ruched dresses drape into large back bows, and long dresses are adorned with three-dimensional tulle flowers with embellishments. Knitwear adapts the motifs of the collection in merino sweaters with cutouts, slit dresses with leather straps and buckles, and draped angora tops and dresses. Chain vests are interwoven with crochet flowers. Metal roses highlight leather belts and harnesses embellished with eyelets, and mixed in with metal chokers, and more accessories. The metal rose is also featured on the pointed toe of thigh-high boots, as well as stiletto sandals. Blumarine’s lip-shaped Kiss Me bag silhouette is reversed in a new messenger bag crafted in leather or zebra-printed, red or black cow hair with shearling details, in three sizes while a butterfly-shaped evening bag and toy bag also debut in cow hair and leather iterations.