Dior presented its Fall-Winter ’25 collection at the Tuileries Garden in Paris, paying homage to its creative director from 1989 to 1996, Gianfranco Ferré. “Once Upon a Time,” the name of the show, was an ethereal play of silhouettes with historical references yet a modern allure. The show was a clear example of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s strong storytelling, blending past inspirations with contemporary codes.
The show started with a model dressed in a white dress, sitting on a swing in the middle of the runway. The poetic debut was followed by a collection where loose silhouettes merged with delicate lace and rich embroidery. Drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, the looks blurred the lines between femininity and masculinity, challenging traditional gender norms and introducing a feminine yet revolutionary silhouette. Victorian frock coats were styled with ruffled shirting introducing flawless tailoring, and androgynous shapes. Rendered in different colors, the coats made a strong statement that contrasted with the softness of the feminine garments. Ruff collars showcased aristocratic grandeur.
Motorcycle jackets were also part of this rich visual language, merging styles and constructions. The show traced the evolution of femininity, through lace-trimmed dresses to structured garments, and from delicate silhouettes, to strong constructions. Brocades, rich embroidery, floral embellishments, metallic details, bedazzled pieces, and voluminous skirts created a lavish visual experience, while sharp tailoring and cinched waists evoked Gianfranco Ferré’s era. A mix of textures, layering, and silhouettes offered an almost theatrical and historically inspired rendition of fashion.
The overall collection was an eclectic blend of styles, silhouettes, and shapes, creating a distinctive visual language through the timeless codes of the luxury house, while portraying a contemporary take on the brand’s DNA.