What happens when two masters in design and garment construction work together? This is the question the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation explores in its most recent exhibition, Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, 1980-1990: Two Decades of Artistic Affinities. The Alaïa-Mugler relationship was more than just a fashion collaboration—it was a friendship built on creativity and mutual admiration. This exhibition aims to showcase the result of years of friendship, in which both couturiers inspired each other and created a unique and visionary silhouette.
Rumor has it that for the autumn-winter 1979-80 collection, designer Thierry Mugler invited Azzedine Alaïa to design a series of tuxedos for the show, and it was this exact collection that would inspire Alaïa to become a designer. After this canonic event in fashion history, Alaïa’s silhouettes became renowned throughout the world for their architectonic yet fluid shapes, always with respect for the natural curves in mind.
Around 70 pieces, including these tuxedos, dresses, coats, and jumpsuits, showcase the ties that link the two designers, as well as their ongoing support and inspiration for each other. Curated by Olivier Saillard, the exhibit unfolds across two floors and is arranged in chromatic order, starting with black, followed by reds, blues, and whites, and finishing with gold tones. The space also features a rounded window where visitors can glimpse the original workshops of the label. The exhibition concludes with a video of Alaïa’s first runway show, which took place in New York, with Mugler as a great supporter.
Throughout the space, one can clearly understand the similarities in Alaïa’s and Mugler’s approach to construction. Both known for their architectural designs, their creations showcase the technical prowess of the designers as well as their passion for the female body. Alaïa, originally trained as a sculptor, emphasized structure and precision—this is seen through the bodycon dresses and meticulous tailoring. Mugler, with his theatrical approach, created striking silhouettes reminiscent of a heroine-like aesthetic. Both their designs emphasized cinched waists, wide shoulders, and femininity.
The intimate conversation between the couturiers’ creations not only serves as a reminder that in fashion, inspiration is stronger than rivalry, but also highlights their modern yet timeless vision. Pieces conceived in the 1980s and 2000s seem as current and wearable as they did back in the day. Through their silhouettes, visitors can immerse themselves in their avant-garde conception of the body—a celebration of naturality—and see how their deep appreciation for women allowed them to create a femme fatale and empowered aesthetic.
The exhibition Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, 1980-1990: Two Decades of Artistic Affinities can be seen from March 3 until June 29 at the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation in Paris.